Machine for forming and stitching tapered collarets



Sept. 23, 1924. 1,509,148

R. R. HUGHES, JR MACHINE FOR FORMING AND STITCHING TAPERED COLLARETS Filed June 17. 1919 s Shets-Sheet 1 fieepi 23, 1924. 1,509,148

R. R. HUGHES, JR

MACHINE FOR FORMING AND STITCflING TAPERED COLLARETS Filed June 17. 1919 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 R. R. HUGHES. JR

MACHINE FOR FORMING AND STITCHING TAPERED COLLARETS 6 Sheets-Sheet Se t. 23, 1924.

Filed June 17, 1919 awuentoz @Mkowwwg R. R. HUGHES, JR

MACHINE FOR FORMING AND STITCHING TAPERED COLLARETS Filed June 17. 1919 6 Sheets-Sheet 4- awwudoz Sept. 23, 1924. Lswma v R. R. HUGHES, JR

MACHINE FOR FORMING AND STITCHING TAPERED COLLARETS Filed June 17 1919 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 Sept. 23, 1924. 1,509,148 1 R. R. HUGHES, JR

MACHINE FOR FORMING AND STITCHING TAPERED COLLARETS Filed June 17. 1919 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 mafia 9 35 trolled, so thatthe tapering of the collaret messes msrrnn STATES Permit orrics.

ROBERT E. HUGHES, JR, O'F UTICA, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOE T UNION SPECIAL MA- CHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

Patented Sept. 23, 1924.

MACHINE EDP. FOB-MING AND STITOHING TAPERED COLLARETS.

Application .filed. Juno 1?, 1919. Serial No. 302%,75-3.

To all whom it may concern. line of feed showing the presser toot, throat Be it known that I, Runner R. HUGHES, plate, teed dog, and the parts of my i111- Jr.., a citizen of the United States, residing proved collaret strip guicing means directly at Utica, in the county of Oneida, Stateof associated therewith.

a New York, have invented certain new and Figure 5 is a View partly in section and useful Improvements in lilachines torFormpartly in front elevation showing the throat ing and Stitching 'llapered Coll-arets, of plate, a part of the presser foot, and the which the it'ollowing is a description, reter collaret strip shitting means; ence hei'ng'had to the accompanying draiv- Figure (3 is a plan View showing part of ing, and to the figures of re't'erence marked the presser toot, trimming devices and the thereon. collaret guiding and shiftingmeans, said lhc invention relates to new and useful means being set for the stitching ol' the coliuz iirorements in sewing u-iachines, and laret strip, the strip being guided directly ino-re particularly to an attachment for a into the machine and stitched at its full serving machine for forming and stitching Width;

eollaets to garments. Figure 7 is a similar View, but showing An object of the invent-ion is to provide a the shifting means moved into position for machine of the above character with means tapering!" the end of the collaret strip; which areadm ted to press against the upper Figure 8 is a plan View of the throat plate face of the strip for directing the same to and feed dog;

the ti'inming m-echanism, which means is Figure 9 is a perspective View of the col apeh'le of being shifted tor varying the l-aret strip guiding means;

amount of material trimmed oil from the Figure 10 is a View showing more or strip. less diagrammatically a garment having a.

A further object of the invention is to tapered collaret strip stitched thereto;

provide 'a machine of the above character, Figure 11 is a View showing more or less wherein the collaret strip asit is directed diagrammatically the finishing of the end to the trinnner is engaged by a series of 01? one collaret strip, the stitching between rollers, which rollers may he moved sidegarments and the beginning of the end of a Wise for sl iifting the collaret strip in its collaret strip on a second garment;

guiding means for tapering the same. lligure l? is a sectional view on the line A further object of the invention is to l2-12 of Figure 11; provide means for tapering and stitcliii-ng a Figure 13' is a sectional View on the line oollaret, which means is maa'mally conl3l3 of Figure 11.

My invention is directed broadly to a colmay he started at the will of the operator. laret strip guiding and shifting means for These and other objects will in partihe use iii-connection with a sewing machine of ohsdous and will in part he he e'inatter more the type disclosed in patent to Joseph fully described. Berger, granted October 15, 1918, N0. In the drawings whiclrshow by Way of 1,281,900.

illustration, one embodiment ofthe in-veu It will be noted that in this Berger patent tion the collar-ct strip is guided by hand, and il igure 1 is a View partly in plan and said collaret strip is shifted relative to the partly in section, showing asewing machine. trimming mechanism for tapering the strip. having my improved collaretstrip guide at- My invention is directed to manually contached t-l-iereto; trolled means for shifting the collaret strip Figure 2 is a View partly in trout e le-Vafor tapering the same. and comprises ,a .tion and partly in section, showing a .p-orguiding means for guiding the strip to the tion of the machine and any improved c-oltrimi'ning' mechanism and stitching means, Janet guiding and directing means; and guiding devices Which are in engage- F'ig'ure 3 is an end view of the collaret ment with the strip and control the feeding guiding :mezrns showing only the base plate, ot the strip to the trimming mechanism and standard and operating shaft of the sewing stitching mechanism. Said guiding devices machine with which it is associated; are automatically shiftah-le, sons to laterally Figure is lit longitudinal section on the shift the position of the collaret strip in strip as it is attached to the garment.

extent.

Referring more in detail to the drawings, my improved co-llaret strip guiding and directing means is shown as applied to a sewing machine having a bed plate 1, from which rises a standard 2, in which is jour naled the main shaft 3 of the machine. Mounted on the bed plateis a work support 4, carrying a? throat plate 5, which is formed with feed slots 6, in which a feed dog 7 operates. This feed dog 7 is carried by the usual feed bar and operated in the usual way. The throat plate is provided with needle openings 8-8, through which the needles. indicated at 9-9, operate. A suitable thread laying mechanism co-o-perates with the needles above'the work support,

' and alooper co-operat-es with the needles beneath the work support. The material is held on the wor: support by a presser foot 10. Said presser foot 10 is provided with a 'slot 11, into which the upturned edges of the fabric and the collaret strip arefguided, so

' that-they may be presented to a trimming mechanism consisting o f a stationary timining blade 12- and a movable trimming blade 13, These parts are all similar to those shown in the patent above referred to and a detailed showing and description thereof is not thought necessary.

The body fabric to which the eollaret strip is attached is indicated at F in the drawings. The body fabric is. led over a suitable rest plate 14 and is directed beneath the presser foot to, the stitching mechanism. The col- 'la'ret strip, indicated at S in the drawings, is

led through a guide 15. The guide 15 as clearly shown in Figure 9 of the drawings, consists of a supporting shank 16, which is secured to the cloth plate by screws passing through openings 17. The collaret strip is led through a guiding recess 18 The upper edge of the guide forming the guiding recess 18 is curled back, as indicated at 19, so as to form a smooth edge for theicollaret strip to be bent around, said strip being preferably directed to the guiding means from a strip roll attached at a suitable place to: the machine.

Secured to the throat plate '5 is an upwardly curved arm 20, see Figure 8. This arm is located in front of the major portion of the presser foot. Said presser foot is, however, provided with extensions 21 which project forwardly and underneath this arm 20, see Figure 5. The feed dog is also provided wth a feeding section 22, which 00- operates with this extension 21 of the presser foot. This aids in the feeding in of the body fabric to which the collaret strip is to be attached. Also located between the guide 14- and the presser foot is a. guide 23. This guid'e'23 is used for guiding the edge. of the collaret strip when it is running a parallel width thatis, at the time when said strip is not being tapered. V

The upwardly curved arm .20 bends the free edges of the colla-ret strip out of a horizontal plane and raises said edges into'the slot and presser foot and directs them to the trimming mechanism. The distance said edges-are 'aised in a vertical direction determinesthe amount trimmed or cut from. the strip It will'readily be seen that by gradually raising the collaret strip,'the line of cutting will shift and this will result in a tapering of. the end of the collaret strip as it is attached to the garment. t ning of the collaret the strip has been raised to the limit, so that a very narrow portion of the strip is left and as it is gradually lowered the end of the co-llaretstrip will be tapered. Likewise, when the other end of the collaret strip is raised, it is" gradually shifted in the opposite direction and more and morecut from the strip, thus tapering the ends I the begin-.

My invention is directly particularly to this means for shifting the collaret strip, so as to taperthe end thereof. As shown 1n the drawings, said means consists of a series of rollers 2d. Theserollers are pivoted on a shaft 25,c'arried by a support 26, which is pivoted at27 to a supporting arm .28. The shaftj25 is fixed to projecting lugs 29 29, carried by the support 26, and this shaft is curved about the pivotal point 27 which secures the support26 to-tlie arm 28. 1' The arm 20 is also curved about the center 27.

- The rollers 24 are knurled and bear against the upper face of thercollaret strip. The arm 28 is pressed downwardly by a spring, so as to bring said rollers into guiding con-, tact with the. collaret strip. 'The support 26 is gradually swung about the pivotal point 27, and as the rollers gripthe collaret strlp, this movement of thesupport will gradually :shift the collaret strip laterally and cause either more or less of the strip to be trimmeddepending upon the direction in V which the support 26 is shifted. .The sup. port 26 is shifted by meansof' a 'link 30, which is pivoted at 31 to an arm 32, project- Y ing upwardly fromthe support 26. This link 80 is pivoted at its other end to'a crank pin 33,1carried by an arm 34, mounted ona shaft 35, journaled in a bearlng 36, carried by a bracket 37. The bracket 37 extends underneath the, bed plate lof the machine and tothe slide.

is bolted thereto by bolts. 88. The crank pin 33 is carried by a T-head bolt which is adjustablein a radial slot formed in the arm 34. Mounted on the shaft 35 and fixed thereto is a ratchet wheel 39. Said ratchet The ring tO carrying the operating pawl is oscillated on ts support by means of a link 1 l3 which 1s pivoted at lel to an'arm p-ro ectingoutwardly from the ring- 40. The other end of the link is pivoted at to a vertical slide 46. The slide is moved up and down bymeans of a link 47 which is pivoted at 48 Said slide runs in guideways l9i:9, carried by the bracket 37. The link 4:7 is pivoted at 50 to a block 51, which is mounted to slide freely in a radial slot 52 formed in an arm 53, which is secured to a short shaft 5-l mounted to swing freely in *the bracket 37. Said arm and the shat-1554i .Theother end of the lever 56 from its connection with the link 55, is forked, as at 59, and co-operates with an eccentric 60 on the main shaft 3. As the main shaft rotates this lever 56 will be vibrated and this in turn will oscillate the arm 53 which will move the link 47fup and down, thus moving the slide up and: down which will in turn oscillate the ring 40, and this will cause the pawl 41 to move the ratchet wheel one tooth at a time in the direction of the arrow in Figure 2.

The block 51 to which the link 47 is pivoted slides freely in the radial slot 52. A link 61 is connected to this block at one end and at its other end to a rock lever 62. A spring 63 is secured atone end to the pivot screws 64 for the rock lever 62' and at its other end engages the rock lever and tends to turn. the same in a clockwise direction, as viewed in Figure 3, This will shift theblock 51 to a position directly over the center of the shaft The rock lever 62 is connected by a chain 65 with a suitable foot treadle, or the like, so that said rock lever may be depressed at will, throwing the block 51 to its extreme outer position, as viewed in Fig-. ure 3.

When the block is in this position, then the oscillating movements of the arm 53 will be imparted to the.v slide 46 and the rectly back of the blank tooth 66.

ratchet wheel will be stepped about one tooth at a time. From the above it will be noted that the block 51 which is controlled by the treadle is moved toward and from the center of oscillation of the arm 53. The slot in which the block moves is straight and the link of course swings about the pivot indicated at 48. As a, result, if the parts are stationary and the treadle depressed, the movement of the block from the position shown inFigure 8 to the cen ter of the shaft carrying the arm 53 will pull the pawl back far enough so as to causeit to engage a toothin rear of the blank tooth. It is the manual means that shifts the pawl over the blank tooth to cause it to engage the tooth in rear thereof, and it is also the manual means which shifts the block so as to bring the pawl into actuation,

The ratchet wheel is provided with two diametrically opposedblank teeth, indicated at 66 and 67 in Figure 2 of the drawings. Let us suppose the parts are in the position shown in Figure 2. The support for the rollers is now positioned so that the collaret strip as it is led into the machine will be guided by the guide 23 and will be stitched to the body fabric full width. lVhen the operators foot is released from the treadle, the block 51 is moved toward the shaft 54 and this will draw down on the link a7 and cause the pawl %1 to move backward a sufficient distance to engage the tooth di- Inas much as the block 51 is over the center of he shaft 54, the oscillating movements of the arm 53 will not produce any encwise movement in the link 47 and, therefore, the pawl remains idle in this position. As long as the parts remain in this position the col laret passes through the machine and is stitched the full width to the body garment. As soon as the point is reached where the operator desires to taper the collaret strip, then the treadle is depressed, which throws the block 51 to the extreme outer position shown in Figure 3, and at once the oscillations of the arm 53 impart oscillations to the ring 40 and the ratchet wheel 39 will be stepped about one tooth at a time. This will move the link 30 endwise and will shift the rollers 24L step by step in a clockwise direction, as viewed in Figure 2., Inasmuch as these rollers frictionally grip the collaret strip, they will slide the collaret strip in its guiding means laterally, thus carrying more and more of the upturned portion of the collaret strip above the trimming blades. This causes the line of cutting of the collaret strip togradually approach the fold in the collaret strip, which is indicated at s, Figure 5, so thattheend of the collaret strip which is stitched to the garment will be tapered. The tapering of the Furthermore,

strip is accomplished automatically, al-' stopping the stitching mechanism.

. in the drawings.

l When the ratchet wheel has been stepped about through one hundred and eighty degrees, then the blank tooth 67 comes under the pawl and the ratchet wheel will stop, so that the tapering of the collaret strip automatically ceases. hen the strip has been shifted to the full desired extent, it the treadle is released, the block 51 will be at once shifted to a point directly over the axis of the shaft 5- and this will'stop all movements of the pawl ll, but whether the pawl ll is stopped or continues to oscillate, the shifting of the rollers 24-. cease when the blank tooth reaches the pawl -:l;1. Therefore, the rollers will be held in position for guiding the collaret strip, so that the trim- .ming blades cut from the strip the maximum. amount. When the desired point is reached for attaching a collaret strip to another garment, then the treadle is depressed which will. throw the block 51 to a position so that the pawl will engage behind the tooth in rear of the blank, and when the pawl is again actuated the ratchet wheel 39 will he stepped around through an arc of one hundred and eighty degrees, bringing the pawl again to the blank tooth 66. This will shift the rollers in the opposite direction and gradually bring the collaret strip back to normal position where it will pass to the stitching mechanism and be stitched at the maximum width.

1' Referring to Figures 10 to 13 of the strip is tapered from this point to the point Z), which is the finishing of one garment. The covering stitches which cover the edges of the fabric sections are indicated atc After one garment is stitched, then the shifting of the collaret strip automatically ceases and the strip is fed through, as above noted, trimmed to the maximum, depth, and then when the next garment enters the machine, the tre'adle is again slnttecLwhic-h brings about the tapering of the collaret from the point Z) to the point a.

. inents will be uniform.

automatically cease just at the right time;

It will he noted, also, that the guiding means-that is, the parts 1st 'and23 are not shifted but are fixed and the shifting of the collaret strip is broughtabout solelythrough the shifting of the position of the rollers 2a which contact with the strip.

By adjusting the position ofthe T-bolt" on, thc'distanoe which the rollers are'moved,

and, therefore, the amount of'taperingof the collaret strip may be varied. The arm or support 28 which carries the rollers is1 1ressed downwardly "by means of a spring 68. Said spring is coiled about a shaft 69 which carries the arni 28' and said shattfis journaled in bearings T0. The arm or support 28 may beraised' by means of a hand lever 71, which engages apin 72 projecting laterally from the arm or support 28. Said hand lever is provided with a notch 73,

which when in engagement with the pin is so positioned asto hold the parts raised. Attached to the ratchet wheel 39is; a'knurled hand grip 74 by which the ratchet wheel may-be turned at any time.

It is obvious that minor changes in the details of construction and the arrangement of parts may bc,-n1ade wlthout' departing" from the spirit of the invention, as set forth in the appended claims.

Having thus described I claim as new and desire ters Patent is I 1. The combination of stitching means, means located wholly above to secure by Letand pressing against the upperiface of the" strip fol-directing the same to the trimming and stltchmg means,-means for shifting the directing'means tor taperingthe strip, and manual means for setting said shitting means into operation.

2. The combination of trimming means,

stitching means, means'located wholly above and pressing against the upper face of the strip for directing the same to the trimming and stitching means, means for shifting't-he directing means for tapering the "strip, manual means for setting said shitting means into operation, and automatic means my invention, what trimming means, 7 V

for stopping the shifting means ata predetermined point.

'3. The combination of trimming means, stitchingmeans, means located wholly above and pressing against the upper face ot the strip for directing the same to the trimming and stitching means, means for shifting the directing'lne ans step by step for tapering the strip, and manual means for settingsaid shifting means into operation.

4. The combination of trimming means,

stitching means, means located wholly above by step for tapering the strip, manual means for setting said shifting. means into operation, and means for varying the length of the-step by step movements for varying the amount of taper given the strip.

'6. The combination of trimming means,

stitching means, a series of rollers engaging the collaret strip as it passes to the trimming and stitching means, means for shifting the rollers in a direction laterally of the strip for shifting the strip for tapering the collaret.

i 7. The combination of trimming means stitching means, a series of rollers engaging the collaret strip as it passes to the trimming and stitching means, means for shifting the rollers in a direction laterally of the strip for shifting the strip for tapering the collaret, and manual means for setting said shifting means into operation.

8, The combination of trimming means, stitching means, a series of rollers engaging the collaret strip as it passes to the trimming and stitching means, means for shifting the rollers in a direction laterally of the strip for shifting the strip for tapering the collaret, manual means for setting said shifting means into operation, and means for adjusting the extent or movement of the shifting means. 7 i

9. The combination of trimming means, stitching means, a series of rollers engaging the collaret strip as itpasses to the trimming and stitching means, means for shifting the rollers in a direction laterally of the strip for shifting the strip for tapering the collaret, manual means for setting said shifting means into operation, means for adjusting the extent of movement of the shifting means, and means for automatically stopping the shifting means at a predetermined point.

10. The combination of horizontally disposed trimming means, stitching means, means for feeding the collaret strip to the stitching means, directing devices for engaging the collaret strip in advance of the trimming means, means for shifting said di recting means laterally of the line of feed for tapering the collaret, manual means for setting said shifting means intooperation, automatic means for stoppin the shifting means at a predetermined point, and means whereby the extent of movement of the directing means may be varied.

11. The combination of trimming means, stitching means, and means for directing a collaret strip to the trimming and stitching means, said last-named means including de vices engaging the collaret strip, a ratchet wheel, means operated by the ratchet Wheel for shifting said devices laterally oi the collaret strip for tapering the same, means for operating said ratchet wheel step by step, and manual means forsetting said ratchet wheel operating means into action, said ratchet wheel having a blank tooth whereby the movements of the ratchet wheel may be automatically stopped without stopping the movements of the operating means therefor.

1:2. The combination of trimming means, stitching means and means for directing a collaret strip to the trimming and stitching means, said last named means including devices shi'ftable laterally of the strip for mov ing the strip to taper the collaret, a ratchet wheel, a crank arm movable with the ratchet wheel and connected to said devices. said connection to the crank arm being adjustable, whereby the throw of the devices may be varied, and means for moving said ratchet wheel step by step.

13. The combination of trimming means, stitching means and means for directing a collaret strip to the trimming and stitching means, said last named means including devices shifta-ble laterally of the strip for moving the strip to taper the collaret, a ratchet wheel, a crank arm movable with the ratchet wheel and connected to said'devices, said connection to the crank arm being adjustable, whereby the throw of the devices may be varied, means for moving said ratchet wheel step by step, and manually controlled means for setting said ratchet operating means into action.

14:. The combination of trimming means, stitching means and means for directing a collaret strip to the trimming and stitching means, said last named means including devices shiftable laterally of the strip for moving the strip to taper the collaret, a ratchet wheel, a crank arm movable with the ratchet wheel and connected to said devices, said connection to the crank arm being adjustable, whereby the throw of the devices may be varied, means for moving said ratchet wheel step by step, and manually controlled means for setting said ratchet operating means into action, said ratchet wheel having a blank tooth formed therein for automatically stopping the ratchet wheel when the same is turned through'a predetermineddistance -15. The combination of trimming means, stitching means, and means for directing a collaret strip to the trimming and stitching means, said last namedmeans including a pivoted support, rollers carried thereby and engaging said collaret strip, said pivoted support being disposed so that the rollers 'Inaybe shifted in a direction-at right angles pivoted support, rollers carried thereby and engaging said collaret strip, said pivoted support being disposed so that the rollers may be shifted in a direction at right angles to the length of the collaret strip for shifting the strip to taper the collaret, automatic means for shifting said support step by step. and manually controlled means for setting said automatic means into operation,

17. The combination of trimming'means, stitching means, and means for directing a collaret strip to the trimming and stitching means, said last named means including a pivoted support, rollers carried thereby and engaging said collaret strip, said pivoted support being disposed so that the rollers may be shiftedin a direction atright angles to the length of the collaretstrip for shifting the strip to taper the collaret, a ratchet wheel, an arm carried thereby and a link connectingsaid arm with said support for shifting the rollers, a pawl for operating said ratchet wheel, and manually controlled meansfor setting said pawl into action.

18. The combination of trimming means, stitching means, and means for directing a collaret strip to the trimming and stitching means, said lastnamed means including a pivotedsupport, rollers carried therebyyand engagmg said collaret strip, said pivoted support being d1sposed so that the rollers may be shifted in a directionat rightanglesf to the length of the collaret strip, for shift-i ing the strip to taper illlG'lCOlltllGii, a ratchet wheel, an arm carried thereby and a link connecting said arm with said support for shifting the rollers, a pawl. for operating 7 said ratchet wheel, and manually controlled means for setting said pawl into action, said 'ratchet wheel having a blank toothiformed therein for automatically stopping the Shift-r 7 ing of the rollersavithout stopping the movement of the pawl.-

19. The combination of trimming means, I

stitching means, and means for directing a collaret strip to the trimming and stitching 'means, said last named means including a pivot-ed support, rollers carried thereby and engaging said collaret strip, said pivoted support being disposed so that the rollers may be shifted in a direction at right angles to the length of the collaret strip for shifting the strip to taper the collaret, a ratchetwheel,-an arm carried. thereby and a link connecting said arnrwitlrsaid support for shifting the rollers, a 'pawl for operating said ratchet wheel, and manually controlled the pawl overthe blank tooth vso as to set" the ratchet wheel lnto action when said manually controlled means is again operated for bringing about a movement of the automatic means.

In testimony whereof, I-afiix my signature in the presence of twowitnesses.

' ROBERT R'HUGHES, J n.

Vitnessesz, v

C. O. :BAEOHLE, J. ALBERT BAEGH E, 

